Dramatic volcanic giants
The Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) is the second-largest and most biodiverse country in Africa. Rare and endemic species of flora and fauna dominate the country’s plateaus, savannahs, lakes and dense grasslands. The Congo River basin alone is by far the most biodiverse river system in Africa, boasting four times more species of fish than its nearest rival. Palm and fruit producing swamp forests stretch from east to west and endangered gorillas roam the vast jungle networks. DRC is also home to the world’s second largest rainforest and two exceptionally active volcanoes, Nyamuragira and Nyiragongo of the Virunga National Park, the focus of our trip.
Our journey began in Nyabugogo bus park in Kigali, the capital of neighbouring Rwanda. We drove north-west towards the DRC border on the northern shore of Lake Kivu taking in the hillside tea plantations of the old Gisenyi Province (now Western Province). The journey was fairly straightforward but certainly an example of functioning mayhem. Depending on how fast you pay for and then find the correct bus in Kigali, it should last around three hours.
The DRC border was calm, although it can be chaotic. Virunga National Park had organised our visa applications and letters of invitation and a ranger waited for us at the border. He ushered us into the right queue at the right time and after rounding up our documentation he ensured it was seen by the correct official. We stood alongside lines of people that had been there for some time and had not moved much when we left. As the cooler air of the morning yielded to the sticky midday heat, we had little desire to question the system. We were soon ushered into the yellow fever line for our vaccination certificates and temperatures to be checked. Some shuffling around later, our ranger appeared with a wedge of passports in his hand. We were in.
“We were there to climb Mount Nyiragongo. Fiery and volatile, this dramatic volcanic giant is very much alive and likes to let you know it.”
Virunga re-opened in 2014 following 20 years of closure caused by the bloody conflict in the region. As you might expect, the human cost has been high. The park was closed again between 2018 and 2019 following the death of 12 rangers and the abduction of two British nationals in a single security incident. A further 13 rangers were killed whilst protecting a civilian convoy in April 2020. Despite the picture these unfortunate events may paint, the safety of visitors is taken extremely seriously. The park is now protected by roughly 700 rangers under the directorship of Emmanuel de Merode, a prince of Belgian nobility. He was critically injured in 2014 during an ambush in which he was shot four times. After life-saving surgery, a month later he returned to his work protecting the park. De Merode has rightly received international recognition for his commitment to conservation in the most difficult of circumstances.
We were there to climb Mount Nyiragongo. Fiery and volatile, this dramatic volcanic giant is very much alive and likes to let you know it. It is believed to have erupted at least 34 times since 1882, all the while menacingly exhaling smoky ash clouds across the city of Goma’s skies. Goma sits on the shore of Lake Kivu and its foundations largely consist of the solidified remains of Nyiragongo’s past lava flows.
The hike started at the Kibati patrol station, roughly 30 minutes along a dusty and very bumpy volcanic rubble track out of Goma. A number of journalists have reported that the roads around the park are deliberately ill-maintained to deter poachers and logging trucks. The illegal burning of Virunga’s ancient trees for charcoal, called ‘ndobo’ by the locals, is a widespread operation estimated to be worth over $30m each year. It is more dense and slow-burning than its young eucalyptus tree counterpart and therefore fetches a higher price.
The Democratic Forces for the Liberation of Rwanda (FDLR), a terrorist organisation, allegedly operate an illegal charcoal cartel who sell it to the over four million locals living in eastern Congo who rely on charcoal for cooking fuel. Such illegal schemes are rarely policed. Indeed all the way from Virunga to city checkpoints, the army and police allegedly invent taxes at makeshift roadblocks and extort money from civilian porters along the supply route.
We met our rangers for a quick briefing. There had been a recent incident in which two rangers had been murdered by Mai Mai rebel militia four days before we arrived but business was to continue as usual - we were to be accompanied at all times by three guards armed with AK47s.
We were off. The hike began in the wooded surroundings of dense undergrowth and leafy shrubs, a seemingly casual forested path with little incline. In fact for much of the first half of the hike the trail blazed through a thicket of flowering evergreens and conkerberry shrubs meandering to avoid the tall African redwoods, their curling bark adding extra texture to an already wild environment.
Every so often we emerged from underneath the thick green canopy into pockets of cleared shrub land revealing views over lush landscapes stretching all the way to the distant northern shores of Lake Kivu. Small plumes of smoke evidenced rural village life amidst the vast blanket of acacia trees. The authority of the neighbouring subsidiary crater, Shaheru, had long since been conquered and reclaimed by Virunga’s vegetation as had the many comparatively insignificant cinder cones dotted all over the plains and marshlands below us. These were all once active volcanic vents which really does get your imagination going.
“Who doesn’t want to spend a night sat on the outer caldera edge of the world’s largest lava lake drinking Johnnie Walker whilst warming your boots in front of the fire?”
The weather can change quickly. A short time into our hike and with almost no warning at all, rain began to fall and out came the waterproofs. I hadn’t packed one, which is usually about right for me. As a result of the equatorial tropical climate, DRC experiences the highest frequency of thunder storms anywhere in the world. Expect to get wet.
The climb lasts between four and six hours depending on fitness and ascends roughly 1,500m during a relatively short 8km trek. The green surroundings began thinning towards the uppermost fifth of the volcano, gradually becoming more arid and encrusted in loose lava fragments. After the last of the grass and sedge had disappeared, the volcano challenged us to a final 30 minute push up a scrubby and barren rubble scree.
As we neared the summit, I could feel the anticipation all the way to my fingertips. I love volcanoes. Changing into warm and dry clothes could wait. It was every man and woman for themselves. We scrambled up and along the craggy volcanic rock as the sounds of distant explosions and ambient heat began to intensify until we could venture no further.
We peered down from the 1,200m wide summit caldera into the mouth of the volcanic behemoth before us in complete awe. The veiny cracks in the molten surface of the lake were blasted apart by silky fountains of lava propelled high into the air as the volcanic gas from below relentlessly staged its escape to the bubbling surface. Nyiragongo is still one of the most spectacular natural wonders I have ever seen. Standing at 3,470m tall, it contains the world's largest and most active lava lake. There are only eight of these on Earth. Naturally, we had picked up a bottle of whiskey from a road-side vendor during our drive out of Goma. Who doesn’t want to spend a night sat on the outer edge of the world’s largest lava lake drinking Johnnie Walker whilst warming your boots in front of the fire?
As darkness fell, the plumes of smoke rising from the lava lake and Virunga’s evening mist began to glow red, which coated us and the entire crater in a warm volcanic luminescence. Ten days before our ascent a new vent inside the caldera, possibly two, had opened up leading to the highest level of activity since its major eruption in 2002. We were so lucky.
“I thought it better to scorch my boots in these dying embers than run the risk of using Nyiragongo’s crater for warmth and inadvertently roll over in the night into Satan’s living room.”
Lava spilled across the lower of two lava benches within the crater, twisting and swirling into various shapes encouraged by a single lava-fall appearing from the edge of the crater. We took great delight in identifying the lava shapes ranging from rearing stallions and bacon rashers to some more creative (lewd) observations made possible by the diminishing whiskey bottle, I’m sure. We were joined by fellow travellers intermittently as we laughed into the evening sharing travel stories. A local Congolese chap provided the music, a single Afro-pop song playing on repeat.
After several hours, we eventually and reluctantly retired to our sleeping bags. That was the idea at least. Mine had gone missing. It had gotten wet in the rain showers on the way up and it was out somewhere drying, I just didn’t know where. Camp consisted of several rudimentary sheet metal A-frame huts built into the mountainside. It was not a great time for my head-torch to die.
For 20 minutes I stumbled in near darkness trying not to laugh at what the rest of the gang would think of me meandering around camp, a head full of whiskey, whispering to snoring Congolese men whether they had seen my sleeping bag. Most of them did not speak English. Giving up, I made the decision to bunk by the mound of ash which had been our cooking fire earlier in the night. I thought it better to scorch my boots in these dying embers than run the risk of using Nyiragongo’s crater for warmth and inadvertently roll over in the night into Satan’s living room.
The way down was harder not least because of the relentless impact on our knees as we tried not to stumble and slide on volcanic rubble but also because we had to leave the lava lake behind. I felt sure I would never see anything like that again. As we rejoined the tree line I certainly felt the desire to turn around and run back for one last look.
“Virunga is one of five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in DRC, the others being Okapi Wildlife Reserve and the Garamba, Kahuzi-Biega and Salonga national parks. They are all inscribed without exception on the List of World Heritage in Danger.”
We were led and tailed by our rangers at all times. Judging by their smiles and interactions with us they appeared unfazed by the staggering total of 180 rangers who have died defending Virunga against poachers and rebel militias still settling old scores. The story and history of the park is extraordinary. I highly recommend that you watch the Oscar-nominated Virunga Movie.
Virunga is one of five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in DRC, the others being Okapi Wildlife Reserve and the Garamba, Kahuzi-Biega and Salonga national parks. They are all inscribed without exception on the List of World Heritage in Danger. Mountain gorillas are now extremely rare and one of the most critically endangered species. Successful conservation work is helping to secure the remaining populations and of a world population of about 1,000, roughly a third are in Virunga.
Arguably there are few more breathtaking ways to comprehend the sheer might of our planet’s power than observing magma violently escaping from the depths of the Earth's mantle. You have to see it. No camera lens in the world can bring to life the grandiosity of Mount Nyiragongo and the surrounding savannah of Virunga, the most biologically diverse national park in the world and Africa’s oldest. Amongst the riches of DRC’s rainforests, Virunga emerges as the jewel in the crown.
