Goma
An urban landscape of war and peace
The great expanse and tranquillity of Lake Kivu is undeniably relaxing. Depending on where you are, sailors and paddle boarders cut through the lake’s still waters and hikers disappear into a maze of dirt tracks that wind through the surrounding islets and lush terraced hillsides. Despite the peace of picturesque panoramas and quiet rural life, particularly on the Rwandan side, this great lake of Africa tells a dark story.
Following the eastern shoreline towards the north tip of the lake and across the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) you will pass through Goma, a city I struggle to describe, but one in which we ended up visiting before and after our journeys to Mount Nyiragongo and Idjwi Island. Inequitable, occasionally besieged and ever-acclimatising, Goma’s rhythm is steady although ungoverned, ever resilient and unquestionably vibrant.
It is one of DRC’s largest cities after the capital, Kinshasa, and a particularly busy trading post due to its proximity to an extensive network of transborder trading routes connecting central and east African communities and beyond. A recent bilateral agreement with Uganda to build more trade roads between the two countries will only bolster its status as a strategically important centre of regional trade.
“DRC is widely known for its economic and political instability having endured decades of catastrophic civil war, but the Rwandan Genocide of 1994 had a particularly devastating effect on Goma.”
Our journey began in Nyabugogo bus park in Kigali, the capital of neighbouring Rwanda. We drove north-west towards the DRC border on the northern shore of Lake Kivu taking in the hillside tea plantations of the old Gisenyi Province (now Western Province). The journey was fairly straightforward but certainly an example of functioning mayhem. Depending on how fast you pay for and then find the correct bus in Kigali, it should last around three hours.
The DRC border was calm, although it can be chaotic. Virunga National Park had organised our visa applications and letters of invitation and a ranger waited for us at the border. He ushered us into the right queue at the right time and after rounding up our documentation he ensured it was seen by the correct official. We stood alongside lines of people that had been there for some time and had not moved much when we left. As the cooler air of the morning yielded to the sticky midday heat, we had little desire to question the system. We were soon ushered into the yellow fever line for our vaccination certificates and temperatures to be checked. Some shuffling around later, our ranger appeared with a wedge of passports in his hand. We were in.
DRC is widely known for its economic and political instability having endured decades of catastrophic civil war, but the Rwandan Genocide of 1994 had a particularly devastating effect on Goma. The genocide was the catalyst for the first and second Congo Wars, which resulted in unprecedented loss of life in the region. At the height of the conflict 12,000 refugees fled into Goma every single day triggering a humanitarian crisis. As a result, the city is host to a staggering international aid presence.
“Goma was entirely captured by M23 in 2012.”
The largest U.N. peacekeeping force in the world is deployed here. You cannot fail to notice the never-ending convoys of trucks on the roads and enormous aircraft overhead, all emblazoned with the ubiquitous ‘U.N.’ lettering. The airport is in the middle of town so the sounds of roaring engines are fairly regular. The cost of the U.N’s force in Goma now exceeds $1bn annually.
The city’s state of security is notoriously capable of changing rapidly. Militia groups still exist in the surrounding forests and mountains and large-scale fighting in 2007, 2008 and 2009 prompted the government to sign a peace agreement with the primarily Tutsi rebels. Unfortunately, this initiative failed to integrate the rebels into the Congolese military and they defected to form M23 (named after the 23 March 2009 peace agreement). Goma was entirely captured by M23 in 2012.
We stayed at Centre d'Accueil Caritas, a hotel most widely known for its budget prices and proximity to the Rwandan/DRC border. Do not expect a firm mattress or a warm shower, possibly even a shower at all, as almost all of the rooms are in desperate need of renovation. Many of the guest houses and hotels offer the great views of Lake Kivu that Centre d’Accueil Caritas boasts, so if you are sensitive to faulty wiring and leaking pipes then this place isn’t for you.
Tourism infrastructure all but disappeared in the 1990’s whilst the city grappled with a seemingly unending humanitarian crisis, but this is beginning to change. The centre of Goma has no particular attractions but the many hiking trails around the lake attract a large proportion of international visitors and island hopping and kayaking or canoeing out to the many fishing villages are popular activities. Unfortunately, there aren’t many opportunities for wildlife spotting around the developed areas. It is possible to see the East African grey crowned crane here (the national bird of neighbouring Uganda symbolised on its flag) but it is rare and now classified as endangered by the IUCN. More importantly, following 20 years of closure due to bloody conflict, the re-opening of the Virunga National Park in 2014 has really begun to breathe life back into North Kivu province with Goma being the preferred patch for travellers before and after heading out into the jungle.
“Towards the central market, Marché Central de Virunga, a delicious blitz of sounds and smells excited the senses.”
With no concrete plans for the day, we headed along Mtaa Wa Kanisa towards the central market, Marché Central de Virunga. This stretch of road has several restaurants, supermarkets and shops.
Goma has an undeniably cosmopolitan feel with many international bars and a vibrant nightlife, at least in comparison to the neighbouring towns in the province. The sheer quantity of NGO’s operating here means that world cuisine is available for a price. We much preferred the road-side grills and food stalls. They are found all over town selling the usual fried fish and brochettes (meat skewers). Service is slow but the beers are cheap and after a weekend of hiking, a meal by the lake with a chilled bottle of Primus or Mützig is rather welcome.
Sambaza is very popular around the shores of Lake Kivu, a sweet and salty fish introduced in the 1950’s and now served in most, if not all, restaurants in the area. In Rwanda, a story is told that if a wife does not prepare her husband a sambaza dish, then she is mistreating him. You will find them mostly grilled or fried, perhaps with pili-pili (a classic African hot sauce made from hot peppers, garlic, salt, lemon and parsley) or stewed with a side of ugali, a smooth and starchy dough-like accompaniment to most meals, much like fu-fu. Pumpkin leaves are also popular here, which the locals prefer to wilt in chopped tomatoes and then simmer in powdered peanuts and palm oil. It’s delicious.
As we approached the market, a delicious blitz of sounds and smells excited the senses. After a quick greeting, Jambo (Hello!), sales are begun and the vendors barter in a mixture of French and Swahili. As we crossed the threshold a lady emerged from the market with a stork of bananas in one hand, a bag of peppers in the other, a baby wrapped in cloth on her back and a basket brimming with sambaza perfectly balanced on her head. Inside ladies sit on small plastic stools behind lanes of long wooden benches stacked high with herbs, potatoes, mangoes, avocados, cassava leaves. The list goes on.
“Walking around, evidence of Nyiragongo’s continuous eruptions and lava flows is everywhere. Houses are built using bricks made from reconstituted black rock and the roads consist of mostly bumpy volcanic track.”
We followed the beaten track laid along the muddy floor which was leading us somewhere towards the northern edge of the market. Emerging from beneath the tin canopy, we entered an alley buzzing with the sound of stone hammers and pedal-powered sewing machines. As we walked past the stone buildings, we caught glimpses of merchants busy at their workbenches seemingly unaware of our presence. You could spend a day getting lost here.
Virunga National Park, 35km away from Goma, is home to an imposing volcano Nyiragonga that looms over Goma. It is believed Nyiragongo has erupted at least 34 times since 1882 but famously exploded in 1977 and again in 2002 the latter of which destroyed up to 40% of the city’s buildings and cut off the lower two thirds of the airport’s runway which significantly hampered rescue efforts.
Walking around, evidence of these continuous eruptions and lava flows is everywhere. Houses are built using bricks made from reconstituted black rock and the roads consist of mostly bumpy volcanic track that cut through the 2002 lava field that still covers much of the city to this day.
It is particularly impressive how locals have simply integrated these challenging conditions into their infrastructure, rebuilding rather than relocating their lives away from the base of such a volatile giant. Some farmers actually talk of the relatively regular devastation caused by their volcanic neighbour as a mere generational inconvenience, instead choosing to praise the harvesting benefits of volcanic soil rich in fertilising elements.
An ever-present haze of volcanic smoke clouds Goma’s skies.
“Strength and resilience bring enduring hope to these fragile communities. As our Congolese friend, Socrates, told us, “this is their home, they will never leave.”
With the arrival of cross-border refugees as well as swathes of internally displaced people due to the deterioration of state governance, Goma is now home to over one million people, a steep rise from just under 100,000 in the 1980’s. Understandably, the town’s infrastructure and resources struggle to support this many people.
The slums are a short walk in most directions from the main stretch in town. We did not feel unsafe here but out of respect we packed our camera gear and phones away and simply observed community life.
Energetic activity flowed from every direction, tin stalls doubling as houses lined the way forwards as we navigated a maze of pothole-scarred rubble roads busy with vendors and hustlers chancing their daily deals. We wandered past a TV ‘theatre’ where three children had pressed themselves into the muddy ground outside to squeeze their heads through a crack in the wall fancying themselves a free ticket to the showing. Mischievous kids always warrant a smile no matter where you are, especially once the owner spotted them and gave chase.
“This is everyday life for residents of Goma. The city may be physically underpinned by the solidified remains of Nyiragongo’s past lava flows but its foundations are built on something stronger.”
With reportedly over 100 aid organisations operating in the area ranging from violence prevention through to limiting oil development in the neighbouring Virunga and Salonga national parks, Goma is undeniably an urban ‘NGOpole’.
Unique projects have been launched that use basketball and access to sport generally to educate and inspire Goma’s youth. We discovered a recreation centre where we found young residents expressing their stories through art. Outside the courtyard doubled as a gym with equipment made of wheel rims, disused sign posts and concrete blocks. There are a handful of these around the city.
Sadly the emergence of these aid organisation-dense areas in regions of humanitarian crisis and war arguably reinforces political and socioeconomic patterns of protracted conflict, and there is now growing academic attention given to the burdens they bring. Their presence and the staff who run them can impact local governance and authority structures. What is particularly heartbreaking in Goma are the many reports of sexual abuse by U.N. volunteers and fieldstaffers on vulnerable locals, the very people they are there to help and for which specifically targeted projects have now had to be put in place.
We liked Goma, although it feels a bit strange to say that. Everyone we met was nothing but very friendly to us, men and women of all ages would shout out to us from bar terraces and invite us over for a drink and sales were always conducted with a smile. But it is difficult to separate Goma’s intrinsic struggles from any review of the city. It is promising to hear of incremental rises in social opportunity and an increasing number of organisations focussed on long term development but it was very clear to us that advancing human rights, health and welfare and protecting the natural environment remained as critical as ever.
This is everyday life for residents of Goma. The city may be physically underpinned by the solidified remains of Nyiragongo’s past lava flows but its foundations are built on something stronger. The solidity and resilience of the local population brings enduring hope to fragile communities. As our Congolese friend, Socrates, told us, “this is their home, they will never leave”.
